Sunday, February 9, 2014

Out of the Blue: The Lago 69 Trek




                    Lago 69 is a buzzword in Huaraz. Nearly every backpacker who is still hanging on during this little town's off season, has been or will be going here. It is an easy day hike to the reward of one of the most shockingly blue lakes in the world, ringed by massive tropical glaciers that feed the lake itself. 
I wanted to do a few days worth of trekking here in the Andes before I left, and the starting point of this hike was on the way to the starting point of my next hike I had planned. So, being economically minded I decided to wrap the two treks together. 
          After loading up on enough food to sustain me for a few days of hiking (mostly in the form of cans of Tuna and Sardines, which a I planned to alternate between from meal to meal. Because, I mean, how bad could four days of only that be? Right?), I used the local buses to take me down the valley towards the town of Yungay. From there I hopped into a crowded local taxi that took me up into the Huascaran National Park, about 5km short of my hike starting point. I shouldered my pack and headed out along a different set of lakes, which were also an incredible turquoise color. After a while, I reached the starting point of my intended hike at Cebollapampa (onion-grass plains), where I stopped for the first of my planned, delicious, sardine and tomato sauce sandwich. 
            I finally got going on my intended trek, praying that the good weather would hold since its is extremely unpredictable at high altitude and especially at this time, the rainy season. I beat the estimated 4 hours to the lake, making it in a brisk 2 hours and cresting to the lake with lungs burning from the lack of oxygen at 4700m. If the altitude hadn't gotten there first, the lake would have taken my breath away. The water was a totally unreal shade of shock-blue, stretching to each end of a high basin, surrounded by glaciers that gleamed in the sunlight, and fed by several waterfalls. 
               Lago 69 was everything I was expecting and more. Luckily, thanks to my late start in the morning (which I swear, was planned folks), I was alone to enjoy the peace and serenity of this magnificent place. I was joined in my solitude by several birds and a curious chinchilla, who peeked his head from between several rocks before scurrying away to what he judged to be better safety. 
              After a bit of respectful contemplation, the cold weather and winds did their work and I started back down. Towards the entrance of the hike I found a nice spot tucked away on an island made by the icy streams to pitch my tent for the night. There the fading light ushered me into my warm sleeping bag, exhausted from a good day's worth of hiking.


Boats wait for tourists and lovers at the first lakes you encounter along the road into the Huascaran Park.
Even the first lakes are incredible. I'm glad I got out of the taxi early to walk this part and take in the views.

A small stream flows from the cliffs behind me to fill the lake.

A waterfall tumbles from the heights that hold my destination, Lago 69.

Looking back along the verdant route I've walked up to Lake 69.

The first glimpse of the lake is breathtaking.
The view of the Lago 69 basin and all of the glaciers surrounding it.

The crystal clear water holds stunning colors of its own.

When you look closely, you can spot beautiful blue ice caves.
Nearly 4700m... not an easy place to breathe!

A little bird hops around the edge of the lake.

A wild chinchilla makes an appearance while I take in the lake.

Two beautiful birds and a chinchilla posing for me on a rock on the way down.

The region of this lake area is called Libertad, or Liberty.

A lone tree on the hillside in front of one of the massive glaciers.
A little island in the midst of the first lake creates some amazing patterns in the water.


I stumble upon some abandoned huts on my way back down to Cebollapampa

Now, regardless of the fact that this thing has no insulation or even a way to block the winds when the temperature drops well below zero and drops several feet of snow on you... LOOK AT THAT VIEW! Not too shabby for a shepherd.

A cow decided to eat my backpack while I explored the compound of abandoned huts...

My camp for the night, on a small island... I would really like if my tent was a little more subtle than bright safety hunter "HERE I AM IF YOU WANT TO MESS WITH ME BECAUSE YOURE MAD THAT IM ON YOUR LAND!!!" orange.

The sun filters through the mountains as it starts to get dark and cold.
Two Andean birds start the morning off scavenging through the fields below the Lago 69.


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