A Stone's Throw: Cusco: Navel of the World

Incans, deeply in touch with the natural world known as Pachamama, a people of the sun.

The streets were cold and nearly deserted at 7am as I wandered through old town, doing my best to politely refuse the hawkers who, even at this ungodly hour, swarmed me with offers of massages, tours, and hot meals. The old women on the street corners peeled potatos in their cheerfully colorful traditional garb. Their weathered hands preparing food for the Peruvians that would head to work that morning in the bustling tourist hub of Cusco

Cusco, meaning "Navel of the World" in the local dialect of Quechua, is the former capital of the Incan empire. It stretched throughout Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, Colombia, and northern Argentina at its height. The splendor of Cusco was renowned when the Spaniards invaded at the first half of the 16th century. They looted the temples. They oppressed the people's culture. They stole the gold and silver. They smashed the idols. They tore down the sacred places to build cathedrals. Yet somehow, the spirit of the Incan people survived to merge with that of their conquerors and made a beautiful mix that persists today. With the idea of a Machu Picchu trek in the back of my mind, I was joined by my new friend from Lima, Tracie, as we explored the city.

Cusco is a wonderfully busy hub for tours to Machu Picchu and other ancient ruins in the area, leaving it a home to music and art that thrives on the idea of embracing their ancient roots. I managed to get into a concert by two students who had spent the last year and a half traveling small Andean villages to collect and record some of the most traditional songs. This style, Huayno, has survived over 500 years. Its still incredibly popular, and its not uncommon to hear its distinctive tones blasting from passing car stereos. I also had the good luck to stumble upon the local San Pedro market, off the beaten tourist path this hive of activity provides insight to the average life of most Peruvians in the region. With mountains of fruits, sacks of coca leaves, cheap food and goods, and even some more exotic local food (alpaca fetus and 10 year old potatoes among them). One could explore the intricacies of Cusco for months, if not a lifetime, and still find delightful surprises around every corner. My few days before my trek was not nearly enough to scratch the surface, but who knows, I might end up here longer than I planned in the end! For now, off to Machu Picchu!

A typical native rattle made from alpaca and llama claws, passed around during a demonstration by a traditional Cusquenian lutier.

Beautiful art on a crumbling wall overlooking the city of Cusco

Me and a grazing llama ovelooking Cusco.

The winding, narrow streets leading back toward the center of town.

The ancient streets of Cusco.

The sacred valley of Cusco, featuring the main square, the Plaza de Armas, below.

A woman in traditional Andean dress with an alpaca in front of an ancient Spanish monastery that incorporated the parts of Incan structures that the Spaniards couldn't tear down.

The doors are a brilliant blue, with fanciful knockers and handles, all adding a cheery feel to the chilly windswept streets.

Unfortunately, a Starbucks, a McDonalds, and a KFC ("Kentucky" as the locals call it) all adorn the main square. Here you can see a tour streaming past a shipment of frozen french fries for KFC waiting on the sidewalk.